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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.